Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts

Double knotting a necklace



If you want to knot a beaded necklace with semi precious stones, but the holes in the stones are quite large, what's the solution?

I'd got these lovely S-shaped 'slab' beads in dyed turquoise agate (that's an agate dyed a turquoise colour, not huge turquoise beads, BTW!) and was keen to use them.  My favourite thing to make is always a knotted necklace. However, a single knot in the beading thread would just disappear into the rather large bead hole. Thicker beading cord might have been an option, but I wanted to use 6mm howlite beads with a smaller drill hole in between the large slabs - any larger round beads and the slabs might spin or pivot when worn and that's always annoying - so I was a bit stuck.


 I have some pearls which are double knotted, but the knots lie side by side, adding to the length of the necklace.  It looks great with those organic freeform pearls, but wouldn't have been right for this more structured design.

My solution was double knotting.  First, doing a normal single knot close to the bead.  I always use knotting tweezers, as this gets the knot exactly where I want it...



Next, I knotted over the knot I'd just made.  It took a little practice to get the result neat.  The best way seems to be to position the tweezers so that they are at the cross over point in the first knot, and very gently roll the second knot into place, not pulling as tightly as you would for a normal single knot.  Then the second knot was more inclined to sit neatly with a little overlap ...





 I liked the results.  There is still some movement between the bead hole and the double knot around the dyed turquoise agate stones, which adds to the fluidity of the necklace.  A big necklace that it too rigid can be uncomfortable to wear, in my humble opinion.  Also, there is very little pivoting of the larger stone, as the little howlite bead is very securely in place.  And because the knots look like little spacer beads, there's another shade of blue in the design. 

What do you think?



The finished design is in my Etsy shop.

Double knotting a necklace



If you want to knot a beaded necklace with semi precious stones, but the holes in the stones are quite large, what's the solution?

I'd got these lovely S-shaped 'slab' beads in dyed turquoise agate (that's an agate dyed a turquoise colour, not huge turquoise beads, BTW!) and was keen to use them.  My favourite thing to make is always a knotted necklace. However, a single knot in the beading thread would just disappear into the rather large bead hole. Thicker beading cord might have been an option, but I wanted to use 6mm howlite beads with a smaller drill hole in between the large slabs - any larger round beads and the slabs might spin or pivot when worn and that's always annoying - so I was a bit stuck.


 I have some pearls which are double knotted, but the knots lie side by side, adding to the length of the necklace.  It looks great with those organic freeform pearls, but wouldn't have been right for this more structured design.

My solution was double knotting.  First, doing a normal single knot close to the bead.  I always use knotting tweezers, as this gets the knot exactly where I want it...



Next, I knotted over the knot I'd just made.  It took a little practice to get the result neat.  The best way seems to be to position the tweezers so that they are at the cross over point in the first knot, and very gently roll the second knot into place, not pulling as tightly as you would for a normal single knot.  Then the second knot was more inclined to sit neatly with a little overlap ...





 I liked the results.  There is still some movement between the bead hole and the double knot around the dyed turquoise agate stones, which adds to the fluidity of the necklace.  A big necklace that it too rigid can be uncomfortable to wear, in my humble opinion.  Also, there is very little pivoting of the larger stone, as the little howlite bead is very securely in place.  And because the knots look like little spacer beads, there's another shade of blue in the design. 

What do you think?



The finished design is in my Etsy shop.

Spice Up Your Blogs, Shops and More...

by MaryAnn Carroll

Hmmmm......what to write about?  Well, I was going to talk about the upcoming wood-firing by my husband Bill who will graciously save some room for my beads in this quarterly adventure.  I think I'll save that for next week when I hope I can display some gorgeous beads that come from the kiln!! 

Instead, I have been sharing a tutorial that I put together quite some time ago with various people lately.  In the past, I've shared this with Beads-of-Clay and Totally Tutorials as well.  I thought that those of you who have blogs, Etsy or Artfire, etc. shops, websites or would like to make some of your own interesting display signs for your shows, etc. this might come in handy.  I use it all the time.  I'm sure that there are other programs which will do something similiar and perhaps, even more sophisticated, but this is what I use.  It's fast and easy to do.  As a matter of fact, I just created a Free Shipping banner on my Etsy shop just 15 minutes before this post. 

This is a VERY simple way that I go about making a banners, picture gadgets, etc. This one was done on my PC....  I've used it to make picture collages like you see on our Love My Art Jewelry website homepage.

First, you need to open a new blank document in MicroSoft Word.

1. Along the top banner, you should see options for selecting various "tools." Click (insert shape). Look down to the bottom for a choice called (New drawing canvas).....select that. In the example below, I have shaded in what it will look like. The initial "drawing canvas" will be white.

Example 1: Drawing Canvas that has been "filled" with color
2. You will now have a box that has some black dash like outlines as shown above. This is the box that you will be adding pictures/wordart, etc. to This will be your "DRAWING CANVAS" and you will work within this. Each addition (pictures/wordart, etc.) also have their own capabilities within the box until your project is completed. For example, you can resize them, drag them around, etc. In the example below, you would be able to drag the rabbit picture around, add outline colors, etc.

Example 2: Blank Drawing Canvas with 1 picture inserted.
3. When you add different parts (picture, etc.) to it, I would typically work with it OUTSIDE of the drawing canvas first. I first format it by selecting "TEXT WRAPPING" on the tool bar and then select "TIGHT" so that I can move it around easier. I then cut and paste it into the main box. *NOTE: When inserting anything into the DRAWING CANVAS you must have only the outside lines showing as in Example 1.

4. Once you have everything where you want it, you can drag the outside black lines in where you want them (for size), you would click it and cut. **Make sure that the only thing showing when you select are the black outside lines...not the pictures.wordart, etc. that are separate parts inside the text box.

**Think of those parts like the parts you add to a collage. They can be moved and manipulated until they are glued into place. When you pick up the collage, the entire piece goes with you.**

Example 3: Drawing canvas after I formated the picture border of the rabbit and the Drawing Canvas. I also inserted WordArt
If you select the banner that you made correctly, the entire banner should cut (not copy) from the document.


5. Paste it in your Microsoft Clip Organizer (NECESSARY STEP). If you don't know where that is, just search it where your programs are (lower left corner of computer). Once it has been pasted in the Clip Organizer, you can copy from that and paste it in your picture file. Now, it is no longer a Word Document. It is a picture.

**You might want to go back to your document and undo the cut and save it so that you have a template for future banners.

6. At that point you would size it, etc. like you would any picture.

Example 4: Finished Banner. When uploading a "Gadget" on your blog, pick the "Picture" option.
You will then be able to upload this and link it as you wish.

This one has been linked to Nancy's "All Handmade" bead and jewelry shop Round Rabbit on Etsy.

Weekly Special and a Tutorial

Hey everyone! It's time to change up the weekly special on my blog! This week we're moving onto my "Simple and Fun Earrings" section in my shop. I love these earrings because they'll go with jeans and just about ANYTHING.








You can buy them now from this blog post or the side-bar widget for only $6! That includes shipping to anywhere in the world and a 20% discount. How sweet is that?

Want to learn how to sell an item on YOUR blog? Just follow these (hopefully) easy steps.

1. Pick the item your going to sell.

2. Upload a picture of that item to a photo storage service on-line. I like to use photobucket. DON'T use Flickr because that's a violation of their TOS. The picture should be about 200x200 pixels to best fit in your sidebar. You may need to experiment to find the best size if your sidebars are a different width than mine.

3. Leave your photo storage account open and open up your blogger dashboard.

4. Click on "layout"

5. Click on "Add a Gadget" (once you've done the initial set up you can go in and edit it from week to week by clicking "edit")

6. Choose the widget for HTML/JavaScript

7. Choose a title.

8. Leaving that window open return to your photo storage account. You'll have to figure out how your particular site works - but there should be an option to share the image (in photobucket, click on "share").

9. Copy the html code to share the image.

10. Go back to your window with the html widget and paste in the html code.

11. Enter a brief description of the item your selling.

12. Leave that window open and open up a new window for your paypal account.

13. Log into Paypal.

14. At the top of your paypal page is a bar that lists different options. Click on "Merchant Services." That will take you to a page that looks like this:



15. Click on the Buy NoW option.

16. Fill out the required information to best suit your needs.

17. Click "Create Button." That will take you to a page that looks something like this:


18. Highlight and copy the code under the "website" option.

19. Past the code at the bottom of your HTML widget window.

20. Click "Save"

21. In your Layout window make sure you click "save" again.

22. Go to your blog and admire your hard work!

I know there are a lot of steps - I hope I was able to keep it from getting to confusing! Tomorrow I will be giving some ideas of different things you can do on your blog to sell :) See you then!

Making sterling silver headpins without a torch

The other day I was making headpins and I ran out of gas for my little torch. Since I'm making headpins on the kitchen counter, next to the counter is the cooking appliance. I thought to myself, let's try it, why not. And it worked beautifully! Below are a few steps with pictures on how to do it with your regular cooking appliance.
Note: this is only applicable if you want to make headpins. It DOES not work if you want to solder :) But for a quick fix, if you ran out of gas and you're in the middle of the gorgeous pair of earrings and don't have any headpins left, it works :)


1. Cut your wire to size and put them in the flux (mine is some yellow borax liquid from the local jewelry supply shop). I prefer the flux to touch the whole pin, not only the part to be in the fire






2. Take the wire and hold it similarly to how I hold it in the picture, relatively vertical if possible, so the wire blobs up nicely in the middle. You see the bottom becomes after 1-2 seconds strongly yellow. Right after this it curls up into a nice round blob.




3. Take it away from the fire and inspect it briefly. If the blob is not in the middle, or is too small, or not to your liking, put it brieflyback in the fire and repeat the procedure. IF all is good, go to step 4.





4. In the meantime have hot (but not boiling) water in a jar of some sort, but make sure that the dish is not metal. I use a bowl that I bought yoghurt in a while ago. Then put a teaspoon full of pickle. The brand I use is in this picture.





5. As you finish with each pin, put it in the jar with the pickle. You see as the pins are in the container, they are all dark, ugly, oxidized. If you hadn't used flux before, it would be much much worse! Make sure that if you are using anything metal
to put the pins in the container, the metal does not touch the pickle. On the other hand, do not throw the pins in the pickle carelessly either, as the pickel is acid, and although it's not a strong one (yeah I tested it with my finger once, just coz...), it's still acid and not very healthy for your skin (or god forbid your eyes).

6. Leave the pins in the container for anything btw. 5-10 minutes (at least in my experience), until the headpins are nice and white. They are all coated with the film that will be removed during polishing stage.




7. Take out the pins from the pot using anything but metal. I have a copper thong just for this particular task.
My way of polishing the pins is with a Lortone tumbler. Use stainless steel shot of different forms, add a few drops of dishwashing liquid. The US folks recommend Dawn, but as the rest of the world might not be equiped with Dawn, you can use any regular liquid. I'm using in general Palmolive, as this is the one I have in my household. Before that I used a no-name liquid that you buy in the supermarket in larger quantities, as it's cheaper. It worked just the same.
Leave the pins for about an hour or so in the tumbler, and when ready, take them out, rinse well and enjoy using your new home-made pins :)

How to use the draw plate - small tutorial

I bought the draw plate recently to change the shape of my wire from round to square and I have already used it once on making the wire for the pendant in my previous post.
I've looked all over the net for tutorials on how to use the draw plate with pictures (I'm a visual person and I prefer to see than just to read the text), but I couldn't find anywhere one. So I've decided that while I was making my second wire, I would take a few pictures and explain the process, in hope that somebody might find it interesting and useful enough to read it *grins*. If I helped only one person in the process, I am happy :)

The draw plate is used for two main actions with the wire.
- to get thinner gauges of wire (if you don't have that particular wire thickness at the moment, but have something thicker that you don't really need)
- to change the shape of the wire
You can get drawplates with all sorts of shapes. Square, half round (or half square, it's the same), oval, stars, etc
Because my main reason to buy a draw plate was to get myself some square wire for border wrapping, this is the shape I bought the draw plate in.

My method might not be the fastest, or the best, or even the second best *grins*, but this is what worked for me.

1. Because the wire needs to somehow fit through a whole smaller than itself, it needs at least to get even if just a tiny bit through, so it can be grabbed with a plier and pulled through from the other side.
I used my flush cutter to cut the end of my wire and at nice wide angle, to allow for some longer thinner wire so it can get to the other side.

2. Next you need to put the wire through various holes in the draw plate until you find the one that no matter what, it won't go through just by pushing it with your fingers.
As you can see from the picture, I found the size I needed at the hole below the number 13. See that little blob there poking through? That's the little piece of the wire I cut the half of it away in the previous step. It only comes through maybe 1-2 mm, not anymore because the cut ends and the wider part stops it.

3. Now put the draw plate in a wise (mine is an ancient one I bought used which I am also using for holding the coil when I'm cutting rings with my Koil Kutter) to stay secured and without to move. You need a bit of strength in your arm to pull the wire through, so you need resistance from the draw plate to hold it in place. (see the picture of the plate in the vise in step 5)

4. Before you start, you need some kind of lubricant for the wire, so it can glide through the hole easier. I've used a 3 in 1 multipurpose oil, but I've even heard somebody rubbing a candle against the wire. Whatever works to lube.

5. And now the fun part. Pulling the wire through the hole. I used my trusted chain nose plier, although I've heard others to use regular pliers, not the smaller ones for jewelry. I would have used them too except I didn't have any of those in my vicinity and I was lazy to go down to the storage room to bring up one of hubby's.
You grab the tiny end of the wire that is poking through and pull it a bit and again a bit, until more of it it's through so you can actually grab more of the wire, more securely. Once this bit is done and you've gotten hold of more wire in your pliers, with one hand hold onto the draw plate, or the vice (I had to stop to use one hand to take a shaky picture), and with the other, slowly but firmly start pulling the wire. During my first attempt I thought it won't go through. But do perserve as you will feel after 2-3 smaller pulls that the wire gives and it does come through. Once you've done this one time, you will know how strong to pull.
The most important is to try to pull it in one slow, constant and firm motion, so all the wire comes through. Reason is that if you stop in the middle (like I did, as I had to take the picture), you might create kinks in the wire.

Once you've pulled the wire to the other side, do it again, and then again.

After pulling it through 3 times, I stopped. Reason is because the wire started to work harden, and if I had pulled it one more time, I couldn't have used the wire for wrapping unless I've annealed it first, to make it softer again. And that's something I still need to learn how to do.
However, after 3 pulls through the plate, my wire became something between half square and square anyway, which is perfect for what I need. Actually some people even swear on using half square wire instead of full square for border wrapping. For me it definitely works what I've created after 3 pulls through.

If you want to continue, then here you can anneal the wire, and then pull it through again.
I've noticed on my wire, however, that already by the 3rd pull, it came much easier through the square hole. This is because the wire also becomes thinner (and longer) in the process.
Usually what you need to do here is to take the very next (smaller) hole and start pulling it through that hole, using the procedures described above, until you have the thinness and squareness that you are happy with.

I hope in this basic tutorial I gave you an idea of how to go about drawing wire. Once you got the hang of it, you can do much more with it, improve the techniques a lot, or even use various mills instead of the draw plate. But a mill costs a minimum of $200-300, while the draw plate cost me around $50. As it does the job the way I want it, I can use the rest of the money to buy more wire :)

Btw, thanks for the folks at the Starving Artist forum who gave me bunch of useful tips when I first asked about using a draw plate. If it weren't for them, I'm not sure I'd have attempted using it on my own or even purchased it in the first place.
A few months ago when I went to a basic metalworking class (that I left soon after), the teacher strongly discouraged me from using a draw plate without some machinery they had in the class to hold it in place, as he said, you just can't do it by hand. I've just proven that I can.

My journey into making a silver chainmail bracelet...from scratch

I've been asked a few times why chainmail jewelry is so expensive. For a silver bracelet in various weaves a chainmailer can charge up to $100 or more (or 80-100 Euros if in Europe).
Also I have friends in Cyprus who have absolutely no idea how this type of jewelry comes to be about. No wonder. Two years ago for me 'chainmail' only ment the armor wore by European soldiers in the Middle Ages.

My bracelet today will be in the Byzantine weave, a beautiful weave designed for jewelry. This is the final design.

This piece took me pretty much the whole day - except the time I prepared and had lunch, and had a cake and coffee with hubby.



First step - coil the wire. Set up the coiling equipment and start coiling. I actually enjoy this process as it doesn't take long and it's quite relaxing...







Finished coiling. Hm...it could have been neater...oh well, next time...
The coils are rather small as the mandrel is not large enough. It takes approximately 1.5 m of wire (1mm wire on 3.5mm mandrel).






Next step, cutting the coil into single rings... I'm using a jewelry saw which is relatively easy but also slow to work with. But it cuts the rings neatly flush.
And don't forget the finger protection as it's very easy to go with the saw through the fingers...ouch.
Half of my rings have been cut. A small break and then continue...




Finally, all my rings in this batch are cut. Took a while...
Paper is full of rings, silver powder and candle powder. Why candle? The saw needs a lubricant, and beeswax is just right for it.
Have a ton of candles at home, so I took one to use with my saw.
Now rings need to be cleaned nicely and then the jewelry weaving can begin... I don't have (yet) a tumbler, so I'm cleaning the silver with water and soap. Tumbler and stainless steel shot is already ordered, it should come within the next 2-3 weeks...


Approximately 100 rings in that cup yielded by the mandrel size.
Nice, clean and shiny. No idea yet how many I will need for my Byzantine bracelet, so I'll finish these up before making more rings.









And here are the first two segments of my Byzantine bracelet using the rings just cut and cleaned.








Hm...finished up all the rings, and I hardly have half of the bracelet done...
Which means off to coil and cut some more...but in the meantime for a break I wrapped this beautiful lampwork bead (made by an American artisan), as I intend to use it with the bracelet.



Here is my second coil. This one is beautifully uniform and all!




.....after cutting the second coil in rings (another batch of - give or take - 100 rings) and weaving in with the rest of the bracelet, tada...I present you The Bracelet...









Hm, on second thought...I don't like where the bead is...so after undoing that part, here is the final (hopefully) version of it with a nicer clasp and a small extension chain as well...

Now just to take a nicer picture of it and it should be done...






And based on Laura's input, I modified it yet again to make the beadie a clasp... (picture is at the top of the posting). Oh and yes, the silver clasp is also handmade by me, done in one of my small breaks from cutting and weaving silver. How to do that is a matter for a future post.