Crescent Maille turns silver chains or laces into beautiful earrings, bracelets and necklaces. The jewelry set above is called the Octopus Lace. This is a design from her own line of traditional Japanese-style of chain maille weave.
The Mobius 7 Necklace has a very simple design but this is actually the best-selling piece of Chain Maille Jewelry. Simplicity is beauty, I guess that's the message anyone can get from this jewelry.
She has made a lot of designs based on her Mobius Knot. The Spiral Capture in Byzantine necklace which is one of her favorite pieces is made from a number of rings woven through the centers of each other to form a seemingly endless spiral.
The most expensive and exquisite in her line is this European 4-in-1 bracelet which is traditionally used to make armors but she turned it into a beautiful and attention-catcher jewelry.
Now, let's turn our attention to an interview with Crescent Maille on her experiences as a jewelry maker.
Jane: Tell us about yourself, your location, your job and your goals
Crescent Maille: By trade (and calling) I am a book designer—large, beautiful “coffee table” exhibition catalogues and artist monographs for museums and galleries. I currently live and work in the southwest U.S. but have lived all over the country, on both coasts, city and rural, and don't feel like my art or my aesthetic views are informed by any one particular place. I have made “2-D” art in some form (drawing, painting, photography) since I was very young. A few years ago I reached a point when I wanted to find an new craft, something “3-D,” something away from the computer and pen. My requirements: that it be something I could teach myself, something affordable to start, something self-contained that I could do anywhere, and most importantly something that I'd want to do for myself, regardless of whether or not anyone else found it interesting or appealing.
I never had the remotest interest in making jewelry, but around that time I stumbled upon some photos of chain maille on the internet. So amazing. It seemed obscure, a craft I thought only historical (and just about armor). I did a lot of online research and found contemporary jewelry and a thriving community. I located two very small companies selling supplies as well as kits and tutorials. I bought my first kit, opened it like the best Christmas gift ever, and was immediately hooked.
Jane: How did you start doing jewelry (or beadmaking) as a business?
Crescent Maille: I opened my first Etsy store in June 2005, and had several shops in succession where I sold drawings, photographs, and plush toys. However I was really focused on sales and that detracted from the enjoyment—too much stress. Once I discovered chain maille and developed my skills, I decided to open the Crescent Maille shop (July 2007) with a different philosophy. Rather than focusing on the number of sales I focused on the quality of the transactions. Having really happy customers who feel attended to, and feel they have received something unique, crafted with real attention and care, eventually leads to more sales. I have many repeat customers. Instead of stocking my shop with pre-made items, I make everything to order and absolutely love doing so. I think that there is a particular kind of buyer who really likes to know that a piece is made specifically for them, and can be modified if they have special requests.
Jane: Every artist has a personal "creative process", can you explain yours?
Crescent Maille: Chain maille speaks to me on aesthetic and intellectual levels. As a book designer, I started by learning the fundamentals — the theories of fine typography and “good design.” I studied these principles, some history, traditions. Once I was thoroughly practiced in these fundamentals I felt I could take what I knew and truly develop my own style and voice—unique and recognizable, yet always grounded in the essence of the discipline. This a good analogy for how I feel about chain maille. It’s saturated with history and tradition. There are basic weaves upon which others are built, and even more weaves built upon those. I wanted to learn weaves carefully, one at a time, and learn the relationships between them; I wanted to learn the mechanics of weaving as meticulously as I could. With study and practice, I started with that foundation and feel confident in my crafting, and now create my own designs. And there’s always more to learn.
The technique itself is almost like a meditation; once in the groove, I can give my mind over to the work, and lose myself in it. The technique — using just pliers and making one or two motions again and again and again is meditative and calming. And the simplicity — with just silver rings and two pairs of pliers, you can make something delicate and intricate, strong and beautiful.
Jane: When people start doing jewelry, they tend to try a lot of different things before settling down to something that resonates with them, tell us how has your jewelry work changed since you began?
Crescent Maille: I've only done chain maille as a jewelry-making technique. I've experimented with different materials (sterling silver, gold fill, stainless steel, aluminum, niobium), and have come to work almost exclusively with sterling silver. Until you have worked with silver, you can’t imagine how pliable and soft it is, yet with a mind of its own that needs just a bit of coaxing and cajoling. When crafted to perfection, a silver chain maille bracelet is an amazing thing, mesmerizing as it bends and moves and molds itself to your wrist; it almost feels alive.
Jane: Can you share with us a some jewelry making or design tips?
Crescent Maille: Practice your technique and your craft, and become a real artisan in the mechanics. The most interesting or creative ideas are for naught if your craftsmanship is not dead-on. In chain maille in particular, I see too many people selling work that is, on close inspection, poorly made — for example, rings improperly closed, or gouged rings. If you are taking money for your work, it should be as perfectly made as possible. Once you have your technique(s) down, then your creativity can really shine through. Just as importantly, love making what you want to sell *before* you make the leap of trying to sell it. I don't try to anticipate what will be popular or trendy or the next big thing on Etsy; I make what I want, and what satisfies me; I've found that customers who are looking for this particular type of jewelry will seek out my work. People are often surprised at what chain maille can be, whether soft and feminine, or edgy and industrial — but not just knights and dragons.
To view other jewelries made by Crescent Maille, you can visit her sites:
blog & news: http://news.cmaille.com
gallery: http://gallery.cmaille.com
shop: http://cmaille.etsy.com
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